Each ocean has its own characteristics when it comes to waves. Height, frequency. Bathymetry. Literally is the study of the bath tub. The Pacific has a the largest surface area, but, the Atlantic has mid-ocean ranges that divides the basin nearly in half. It is pretty cool stuff is one likes fluid mechanics.
But, surfers are incredibly insightful to their appreciation of the oceans. They know them fairly well and they don't need advanced math to do it. They are really cool folks. It is their experience with the nature of the beast that cues them to the ocean's rhythm. They are extremely reliable sources to their insight. They are important people. Anthropological knowledge is important to research. The experience people have with the environment is important. It often validates the scientific conclusion.
